Well I had said some time ago that I would do a write-up on this, and without further a do....

First off tools are needed, and proper safety gear.



Not pictured is..
*Ratchet and appropriate sockets
*Screw Driver Phillips and Flat
*Rivet Gun (I suggest getting the [url=http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33172]Harbor Freight[/url] Rivet tool.)This will save your hands big time.
*Set of Channel Locks
*The bag is the 7 rivets needed for the install I bought from the dealership.


The door car has to then be removed. To access the screws in the door handle the top cover has to be pried off. This can be accomplished with a flat blade screwdriver. There is a slot on the bottom of the handle between the handle base, and the cover. Some force is needed to pop these off. Take care not to damage the top cover.
Also not shown, the trim ring on the door lever will have to be popped off.
The screws located toward the outer edges have little screw plugs, remove the plugs and take the screws out.
Then remove the speaker grill and take out the screw located under the cover.



This is what the door looks like with the door card removed, minus the door handle. The handle is on in the shot, because I was driving the car with the card removed for a while.



Remove the lower door hooks; there should be 4 or 5 of these. There is a little plastic pin that you can pull that will release the catch on the hooks to release them from the door.



Remove the inner plastic track located at the top of the door. This is the piece that has felt on it and holds the upper portion of the door on.



remove the foam around the door handle.



Pull the little lever shown above my forefinger, then slide the handle mechanism forward toward the front of the car and it should pop off.




Now Swivel the handle down and slide it back and it will come off of the pull rod.



Carefully remove the Vapor barrier from the door. I pulled the back portion off first.



I then worked the top. Oooops, take your time or might rip it.



I then left the center portion for last.



I think the pic. speaks for itself.



I believe these were 10mm bolts.



Then the scissor arms.



At this point you can shove the glass window up and support it some how, or you can remove the window. I was first going to leave the window in, but I eventually removed it. below are the pieces that I removed to get the widow out easier. These may not have to be removed to get the window out.

I pulled the door sail cover. I removed the screw cap and removed the screw and clip that holds that black plastic triangle that is in front of the side rear view mirror.



It takes some work getting this piece out, so be careful. I broke the upper corner of mine. Which I bought a new seal and triangle trim.



Now I removed the outer window seal/felt strip. And made the fatal mistake of bending it. I didn't realize that it was rubber over mold on a metal strip. I couldn't straighten it out and when I tried I bent it more. This shot was after I took out my frustration on this part.
P.S. This piece cost about $92 from [url=http://www.1stvwparts.com]http://www.1stvwparts.com[/url] It wasn't too bad considering the felt was getting quite worn on the old one.



Removing this stuff allowed me to easily remove the window. I don't have any pics. of the window removal, because I was alone and couldn't get any shots.
The Bentley states to remove the window raise the back portion of the window up, and angling the front portion down. This will allow you pop the back window guide out of the track. With a little work the back end will be free and you can pop the front portion out.

Now to remove the motor and regulator.

There are seven rivets that hold the whole assembly in. The pics show the location.





Now it's drill time, and time for the pimpin style eye protection.



Time for rivets to DIE!!!!!



Now the fun part of removing the old regulator. I spy a cable missing coming out of the top end of the regulator.



That's why the cable broke away from the motor, yeay!




Looky here! There is no plastic guide at the end. A remnant of it is hanging by the center track support. And the cable has been pulled from the rubber molding.



In with the new. The installation is the same as the removal. Make sure to put the regulator in correctly with the rivet mating surfaces facing you.






And just rivet that bad boy in place. [b]NOTE:[/b] I did this door with a cheap rivet gun that was a Major PITA, and my hands killed me for a week. Now I have the industrial one from Harbor Freight Tools and my passenger side door should be a whole lot easier.