This guide provides tips on replacing the "clockspring" or "spiral cable" mechanism on the steering column of a 2001 B5 Passat 2.8 (1.8 is probably identical), supplementing the instructions from the Haynes manual (appended in crude GIF format). This turns out to be a rather simple job (about an hour).

BACKGROUND: In my case, the VAG-COM diagnostics tool indicated "intermittent high resistance" in the driver-side airbag igniter circuit, and the symptom was an airbag-fault indicator light that stayed on permanently in the instrument cluster. Spinning the wheel while the diagnostics device was connected could make the reading move to "correct," showing that the "clockspring" was the likely problem. The "clockspring" mechanism is used on most cars to carry the electrical circuits for the air bag and horn (and more circuits in the 4Motion model) from the moving steering wheel across to the fixed steering column. Specifically, a "ribbon cable" very similar to that found in computers is placed "on end" within this circular mechanism, with plenty of slack/extra length so that it can tighten up without breaking on a full turn in one direction, and loosen up without snarling when the wheel turns fully in the other direction. One half of the mechanism is fixed to the steering column, while the other half spins with the wheel. Apparently, these mechanisms are subject to failure even when not abused.

TIP #1: You may need a special tool to remove the steering wheel. The wheel is held on by either an ordinary hex-head bolt that any socket can fit (the early arrangement), or (as in my case) it's a 12mm, 12-tooth spline-drive bolt that requires a spline bit. I borrowed a nice Snap-On version so have no experience in acquiring, but it's probably easily available. My 2001 was actually manufactured in June 2000 (according to the plate on the driver-side door post), and presumably all vehicles from at least that date forward have the spline-drive bolt. Unfortunately, you can't tell until you remove the airbag module, so you may have to purchase the tool in advance and then never need it.

You will also need a torque wrench to retighten the bolt at the end of the process (55 foot pounds for hexhead, 44 foot pounds for the spine-type bolt).

TIP #2: The first step must be to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and ensure you have discharged any static electricity on your body. This is to ensure the airbag does not detonate while you are removing it from the steering wheel. Contrary to "urban myths" in forums on the Net, you do not lose your engine settings etc. by interrupting the electrical circuit. You do lose a couple of things (like clock setting and tripmeter, plus the "activator code" to a stock VW radio will have to be re-entered), but the car works fine when things are hooked up again at the end. The attached pages from the manual contain the instructions for both disconnecting/disabling the airbag and re-enabling it at the very end (it's the GIF pages 4 and 5).

TIP #3: Get the correct replacement part from VW (1J0-959-653-C (RING)) in my case, $140 USD). They need the VIN in the case of 2001 because there was a mid-year change apparently. NOTE that the 4Motion version is more expensive.

TIP #4: The only tricky step (as indicated in para 21.3 of the Haynes manual and accompanying pictures) is removing the combo airbag and horn module from the steering wheel. You should use a short, small flat-blade screwdriver for best results. When the manual says to "pry upward," that means the screwdriver handle you are holding should be moved upward toward the roof of the vehicle, not that the blade end should pry upward. You are trying to push a spring wire toward the center of the steering wheel so that it releases one of the two large "pins" or "posts" that are attachment devices for the module.

Also, you do not have to force the screwdriver in past the plastic "stopper" that closes the bottom of the hole you are inserting the screwdriver into. If you simply gently try to "catch" the spring wire while the screwdriver handle is in the down position, then push the spring wire gently toward the center of the wheel by moving the handle vertically upward, you'll succeed. Also, don't worry too much that the first pin will re-catch while you're working on the second. It takes quite a bit of pressure to reseat it, so you it will remain free while you repeat the process on the second pin.

TIP #5: Disconnecting the electrical connection from the airbag/horn module means releasing a multi-wire connector (yellow on my vehicle), plus two ground connections the manual fails to mention. It's pretty clear which ground wire reconnects to which point, but you may want to mark them so you remember which goes where (may not matter, but it may).

TIP #6: The manual doesn't mention that you have to loosen/semi-remove the trim around the top of the steering column to be able to reach and detach the three clockspring retaining clips to accomplish removal of the old clockspring. This is no problem, but you need a small Phillips-head screwdriver for the four screws that have to be removed. The fifth screw at the bottom rear of the bottom half of the trim did not need to be removed, and helps keep the trim in place nicely for the reattachment process.

TIP #7: There is a sort of "pull tab" on the replacement part that looks like it holds the clockspring mechanism in a fixed position until it's properly located on the column, and I pulled it off once the new part was seated. It snapped off--shocking me. I have no idea why it's molded onto the part, just to be snapped off, but the original looked identical and everything worked after it was snapped off. So, just remember to remove it or it will interfere with the steering wheel re-installation.

That's it. Have fun.